Tuesday, September 22, 2009

the obligatory "why you should trust my recipes" post

Yes, most people explain themselves in the first post of a blog. But I've almost always done things backwards. Plus, I figured the recipes would speak for themselves.

But last night it occurred to me that if one never gave the recipes a chance because one didn't see any reason to think I know what I'm doing, then perhaps we'd circular logic our way back to needing an introduction.

So here we go:

Born in New Orleans to a Jewish caterer (mom) and a self-taught cook and food-lover (dad), I've certainly had a lot of influences on my palate. Some of my earliest memories are of helping my mom wrap 500 wontons in our home kitchen, rushing to fill the sufganyiot before our Chanukkah guests arrived, and listening to my dad ask Frankie the waiter at his favorite restaurant on the West Side to "just feed me." To this day, I'd rather eat my stepmom's bolognese sauce than any other in the world.

I was lucky enough to spend a few years living in both California and New York, which opened me up to the benefits of fresh produce and local ingredients (CA) and the wonders of culturally diverse cooking (NY and CA). Living in NY also reinforced my Jewish roots (I've been longing for a good bialy since about 1999).

Throughout my childhood and youth, I helped my mom in the kitchen. Her baked brie and dijon chicken recipes were favorites with her clients (and us kids!). One of my favorite activities was (and still is) watching my dad make a gravy from roast chicken or turkey breast drippings.

I started cooking on my own in college, mostly because I found that the best way to get a crowd of friends together was to make them something to eat. Though I worked at first from other people's recipes (mom's, dad's and stepmom's), I eventually figured out what flavors pleased me the most and simply created a repertoire of haphazard trial and error. Most of it ended well.

I don't imagine I'm much better a cook than most home chefs who really care about what they serve and enjoy the process, but I've been told cooking is the business I should really be in, asked how much I'd charge to prepare a thanksgiving dinner, and enjoyed many yummy faces aimed in my general direction - so I must be doing something right.

Also, happy birthday, Dad.

Okay, enough about me. Back to the food.

Sunday, September 20, 2009

plantains foster

I had some folks over for a "breakfast for dinner" party this weekend. As if challah french toast with apples and honey wasn't sweet enough, I added to the delicious toothache with a version of bananas foster, a wonderful dessert originated at Brennan's in New Orleans.

I used plantains instead of bananas. I also served it over Kleinpeter Dairy's banana foster ice cream. It was a perfect hot/cold mix of complex and sweet deliciousness, finished with a nice bite of rum - which probably means I didn't burn off the rum completely. Somehow this doesn't bother me.

Plus, it's fun to light it on fire.

Ingredients
2 oz dark rum
3 tbs dark brown sugar
3 tbs butter
1/4 tsp vanilla extract
1 small very ripe (the skin should be black) plantain, sliced into 1/4 inch pieces
ice cream

Melt the butter in a skillet.

Add the brown sugar, stir to combine.

Add the plantains. Stir to combine.

Carefully, add the rum. Let it get hot.

Even more carefully, tilt the pan slightly away from you, stand as far back as possible, and light the rum on fire (use a long fire starter for this).

Let the flames die down. Then serve over scoops of ice cream.

I served this to four people, after we'd eaten a pretty hearty meal - if your meal is lighter (or you just have a sweet tooth) you may want to increase the amounts of ingredients to make more. When I do it again, I'll probably use a larger plantain.

Thursday, September 17, 2009

basic chicken soup

Soups are some of my favorite things to make, because (see prior post on pasta sauce) you can really just throw stuff in a pot and have it come out steamy, comforting and delicious. And, of course, we all know chicken soup is the way to go when you're not feeling well. My step-mother's version of this "Jewish Penicillin" is my absolute favorite. I don't have the recipe for it, though. She seems to make it almost by rote - like putting it together is entirely muscle memory. Frankly, that's probably what makes it so good.

I have watched her make it enough times to have an idea of the ingredients, and my version with those ingredients is nothing to scoff at, if not quite the soup fantasy that comes from her kitchen. I highly recommend serving it with some crusty bread and a glass of iced tea.

Ingredients
1 whole chicken, cleaned (about 4-6lbs)
1 large (48 or 49 oz) can or carton of chicken broth (you can certainly make your own and use that)
10 carrots, cleaned and sliced
5 celery stalks, cleaned and sliced (feel free to use more - I don't really like celery that much)
1 large onion, diced
1 package of egg noodles (optional)
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 lemons
salt
cayenne pepper
thyme (optional)

Clean the chicken by removing the giblets from the cavity (they're generally wrapped up in a nice pouch) and rinsing it well inside and out. If you have any huge flaps of fat on your chicken, you can trim them - but don't trim off all the fat or your soup will lack depth and flavor. Put the cleaned chicken in a large pot. Pour in the entire can of chicken broth. If the chicken is not completely covered by the broth, add water until it is submerged.

{Aside: I tend to use Swanson's broth because it's readily available and has a great flavor. I've tried many others (I was on a quest to find an organic or free range broth that I liked) and really never chanced on anything that tasted as good. So, if you're not making your own, I recommend Swanson's. Feel free to use the low-sodium kind, but keep in mind that soup is mostly water and will need a good amount of salt to really bring out the flavors. So, add it with high-sodium broth, or add it later from your salt jar, whatever.}

Bring the broth to a boil, then turn heat to medium-low, cover loosely, and simmer about 40 minutes. During the simmering process, check the water fairly frequently for proteins sitting on the top of the water. This stuff is called "scum" and should be skimmed off gently using a large spoon. The first minute of this video shows a scum skimming technique.

To see if the chicken is cooked fully, grab onto it with a pair of tongs and try to lift it. If the meat tears away or the chicken falls apart pretty easily, you're ready to go.

Remove the chicken from the broth and set aside on a plate or cutting board to cool. Remove the liquid from the heat and cover (but don't throw it away!).

When the chicken has cooled (this can take some time), take the meat off the bone. Frankly, the easiest way to do this is with your fingers. Don't be afraid to get messy here! Just throw on an apron and dig right in. Once you'd removed all the meat, shred it up into bite-sized pieces. Toss the bones in the trash (or keep them to make another broth with).

In another large pot saute the vegetables in olive oil, adding a little salt to help the process along. You'll want your vegetables to all be cut about the same size, so they cook evenly. Once softened, pour in the broth you set aside.

Now, if you're adding noodles - bring the broth to a boil, add the noodles and boil for as long as the noodle package says to (generally between 5 - 8 minutes). Once the noodles are boiled, put the shredded and de-boned chicken back in the pot.

If you're not adding noodles - bring the broth to a simmer and add the shredded and de-boned chicken back to the pot.

Squeeze the juice of both lemons into the broth. Add salt and cayenne pepper (and thyme if you like) to taste. Get ready to feel like your mama just stopped by to cook for you. Enjoy.

Monday, September 14, 2009

thrown-together pasta sauce

Sometimes I wish I were the kind of cook that carefully plans out recipes, tweaks them a little bit with each making, settles on the very best version and prepares it that way every time from then on out. But alas, like most things I do, my cooking follows the "throw it all in a pot and see if it works" plan. You might not be surprised to find that this works better in the kitchen than it does in life...but I digress.

Yesterday I put together a wonderful tomato-cream sauce. It began because I thought I had defrosted some ground turkey (to make a chili) only to find that the meat was actually Italian sausage. So much the better.

Ingredients

1/2 lb mild Italian sausage, removed from its casing and broken up into bite-sized pieces
1 24 oz can whole tomatoes
1/2 onion, diced
4 cloves garlic, minced
10 baby carrots, sliced (or use 2-3 whole carrots - I had small ones around)
1 tbs dried basil
1/4 c half n half
salt and pepper to taste
1 tbs olive oil

Saute the onion, carrots and garlic in olive oil until softened. Add the sausage and saute until cooked. If you'd like, you can pour or spoon out any grease in the pan at this point.

Break the whole tomatoes up with your hands (just give each on a squeeze) and add them and the liquid from the can to the pot. Bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the half n half and salt and pepper to taste. You're ready to serve, but you can let it simmer up to an hour.

Pair with your favorite pasta. I used rotini, because the little spirals catch a lot of the liquid in the sauce. This made enough for about 4 servings.

Thursday, September 10, 2009

cilantro-lime rice

If we really are what we eat, then during my last year of college I was a giant vegetarian Chipotle Grill burrito. Then I somehow chanced upon the "nutrition" content and was swayed to make my burritos at home. The foundation of the Chipotle burrito, I think, is the cilantro rice (for which I maintain they've changed the recipe - and not for the better). So here is my homemade version.

Ingredients
Long or medium grain white rice
Chicken broth (or vegetable broth if that's how you roll)
2 limes
fresh cilantro, chopped
salt

Make the rice according to package directions, substituting broth for water, and adding the juice of one lime to the liquid.

When the rice is done, add cilantro in small bunches (maybe 1/4 cup at a time) until the rice is beautifully flaked with the fresh green herb. Taste the rice at this point, and add salt and juice from the other lime until the rice tastes as you like it. I would estimate that for four servings of rice, I use 3/4 of the bunch of cilantro, both limes, and about a teaspoon of salt. Your tastes may differ.

This rice is very fresh tasting and works well as the base of a burrito or taco, or as a side dish to fish or poultry. It doesn't, however, keep well, because the cilantro will wilt. It's fine, as long as you don't mind that the cilantro turns color - still totally delicious, just not as beautiful.

Friday, September 4, 2009

dill fish

I wanted to write the title "dillfish." In my head, that's how it's spelled. Moving on...

Some things you don't know about me: 1) dill = my favorite herb and 2) mustard = my favorite condiment.

Let the taste bud celebration commence.

Ingredients

2 fillets of white fish (I had catfish on hand)
1/2 c wondra or sifted flour
1/4 c plain yellow mustard
1 tbs dill
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
canola or vegetable oil

Put the mustard in a bowl.


Put the wondra, dill, salt and pepper on a plate and combine with a fork.


Cover the bottom of a large pan with a thin layer of oil and turn the heat to medium high.


Dredge the fish in the mustard. Then dredge it in the wondra/seasonings. You should have a very light layer of "breading."



Cook 2-3 minutes per side, shaking the pan almost continuously throughout the cooking process to keep the fish from sticking. Enjoy with some vegetables, rice, or just on it's own like I did.

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

corn and bean salad

Finally, something light! I've made this salad twice over the summer to bring to parties, since the fresh corn has been so wonderfully sweet. It was successful both times. Of course, you can easily use frozen or canned corn once the season changes.

Ingredients

Salad
3 ears of corn (about 2 cups)
2 cans of beans (black or black-eyed), drained
1 jalapeno, seeds and ribs removed, minced
1 cup crumbled blue cheese
1 pint cherry tomatoes, cut in halves
1 tbs sugar

Dressing
I make this dressing whenever I'm running low on mustard; that way, I don't need to use another vessel.
1 almost empty jar of mustard (I like Trader Joe's hot and sweet mustard. I like it so much that my brother would send me three or four jars at a time once I moved away from CA [and therefore, moved away from TJs])
balsamic vinegar
olive oil
salt
fresh cracked black pepper

To make the dressing: leave the remaining mustard in the jar, fill it 1/3 of the way with olive oil and 2/3 of the way with balsamic vinegar. Screw the top back on and shake vigorously. Open it up, and add salt and pepper to taste. Simple!

To make the salad: put a large pot of water and 1 tablespoon of sugar on to boil. Once the water's boiling, add the ears of corn (make sure to remove the husks and strings). Boil for 15 - 20 minutes. Drain, then cut the corn off the cob.

Put the corn kernels, drained beans, minced jalapeno, blue cheese and tomatoes into a large bowl. Add the dressing (shake it again before you add it) in 1 tablespoon increments, tossing after each addition, until you get the coating of dressing that you desire. I find this dressing goes a long way.

I hope you and your friends enjoy this fresh summer treat!

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

red curry grits

Since making the fish poached in curry sauce, I've been ruminating on the marriage of grits and curry. As it turns out, it was a lovely match. The spice of the curry paste and creaminess of the coconut milk works perfectly with this versatile grain.

Ingredients

1 can coconut milk
1 tbs red curry paste
grits
water
salt

Over medium heat, bring the coconut milk to a simmer in a small saucepan. Whisk in the curry paste. You now have curry sauce.

In another saucepan, prepare the grits with a slight change to package instructions: replace one half-part water with curry sauce. So, if the amount of grits you're making calls for 2 cups of water, use 1 cup water and 1 cup curry sauce. Otherwise, follow the package instructions.

Serve with grilled shrimp or a grilled chicken breast (I went with the chicken breast). I bet they're amazing with some eggs for breakfast, too. Let's face it - the grit can be served with anything.

I formed mine into grit cakes (pour your grits out onto a cookie sheet, allow to thicken. Use a cookie cutter to cut into rounds, then pan fry). But, they didn't really fry up well - so my recommendation is not to go the grit cake route.